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Laminate Guide | Parma Floors

PLEASE READ ALL INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY BEFORE YOU BEGIN INSTALlaTION.

Required Tools

  • Foam underlay
  • Construction adhesive
  • Spacers
  • Tapping block
  • Pull bar
  • Saw
  • Hammer
  • Utility knife
  • Pencil
  • Tape measure
  • Ruler
  • Pressure sensitive polypropylene adhesive tape

IMPROPER INSTALLATION WILL VOID WARRANTY:

  • Always check panels for defects such as chips and color or sheen differences under good light conditions. Also Check that the channel is clean and free of debris. Always work out multiple boxes to mix product to achieve proper pattern repeat
  • Your laminate flooring MUST be allowed to acclimate to the environment of the installation area. Leave the closed packages in a horizontal position in the room for 48 hours prior to installation. Preferable temperature should be approximately 62-73 f with a relative humidity of 45-60 percent. Humidity should never be allowed to drop below 30% as this may cause gapping.
  • If existing baseboard moldings are difficult to remove, they may be left in place. Quarter round molding is all that is needed to cover the expansion space between.

SUITABLE TYPES OF SUBFLOORS AND FLOOR PREPARATION:

  • The subfloor must be thoroughly even, dry, clean and solid. Carpet staples or glue residue must be removed and floor must be clean to ensure proper installation.
  • To check for evenness, hammer a nail into the center of the floor. Tie a string to the nail and push the knot against the floor. Pull the string tight to the farthest corner of the room and examine the floor at eye level for any gaps between the string and floor. Move the string around the perimeter of the room noting any gaps larger than 1/8”. Any floor uneven or more than 1/8” per 3’ must be sanded down or filed in with an appropriate filler.
  • Floors must be carefully checked for moisture problems. Any moisture problems need to be solved before installation. New concrete needs to cure for at least 60 days before installation.
  • This product is not suitable for damp rooms such as bathrooms, saunas, rooms with damp concrete, rooms with floor drains or rooms that could potentially flood.
  • For installation on concrete floors or any floors over a crawl space a vapor barrier MUST be laid down first.

Basic Installation

STEP:1

  • All flooring installation requires foam underlay. Run the foam underlay in the same direction as the laminate panels. Underlay should be butted side by side with no overlap. Tape seams together. Additional foam is not required if foam is already attached to the laminate.You will need to remove the tongue on the side of the panels that face the wall. This is to ensure that the decorative surface of the laminate floor is well under the finished trim when installed. Use a utility knife to score through the tongue several times until it easily snaps off.

STEP:2

  • Start in a corner by placing the first panel with its trimmed side facing the wall. Use spacers along each wall to maintain an expansion space of 5/16”- 3/8” between the wall and the flooring. Remember that this product is primarily wood and needs room to expand and contract. At no point should you attach the floor to any surface.

STEP:3

  • To attach your second panel, insert the end tongue of the panel into the end groove of the first panel at a 45 angel. Lower the panel flat to the floor. Line up edges carefully

STEP:4

  • Continue connecting the first row until you reach the last full panel. Fit the last panel by rotating the panel 180 with the pattern side upward, place beside row, mark and saw off excess. Attach as described

STEP:5

  • When using a handsaw cut on the decorative surface. If you use a jig or circular saw cut with the decorative side down to avoid chipping

STEP:6

  • Begin the next row with the off cut piece from the previous row to stagger the pattern. Pieces should be a minimum 8” long and joint offset should be at least 16”

STEP:7

  • To start your second row, push the side tongue of the panel into the side groove of the very first panel in about 45. When lowered, the plank will click into place

STEP:8

  • Attach the second panel of the row on the long side as described above. Push this panel as close as possible to the previous row. To attach this second panel to the previous panel, tap the end using a tapping blcok and rubber mallet.

STEP:9

  • Attach the second panel of the row on the long side as described above. Push this panel as close as possible to the previous row. To attach this second panel to the previous panel, tap the end using a tapping blcok and rubber mallet.

STEP:10

  • Continue along in the same fashion as in Diagram 8.

STEP:11

  • To fit the last row, lay a panel on top of the previous row. With the tongue to the wall, lay another panel upside down on the one to be measured and use it as a ruler. Don’t forget to allow room for spacers. Cut the panel and attach into position

STEP:12

  • Door frames and heating vents also require expansion room. First, cut the panel to the correct length. Then place the cut panel next to its actual position and use a ruler to measure the areas to be cut out and mark them. Cut out marked points allowing the necessary expansion distance on each side

STEP:13

  • You can trim door frames by turning a panel upside down and using a handsaw to cut away the necessary height so that panels slide easily under the frames

MOLDINGS:

  • Reducer molding is used to finish flooring when the adjusting surface is lower than the laminate flooring or when flooring meets carpet. Position the U track 1/4" between each edge of the flooring. Screw, nail, or glue down the track directly to the subfloor and then insert the reducing strip into the track.
  • T-molding is used to finish flooring when two level surfaces meet in doorways or for expansion joints. Install same as above. If your room is more than 23ft wide you will need to allow for an expansion joint. Expansion joints use T-molding and can be positioned in any inconspicuous place.
  • Stairnose modling is used to finish flooring on landings or stair edges. Moldings need to be glued and screwed down to the subfloor for safety and stability. Color fill should be used to cover counter sunk screws.
  • To finish the perimeter of the room install quarter round molding using finishing nails. Quarter round molding is nailed directly into the baseboard.

MAINTENANCE AND CLEANING:

  • Preferable temperature should be approximately 62-73F with a relative humidity of 45-60 percent. Humidity should never be allowed to drop below 30% as this may cause gapping.
  • Do not use a wet spray micro fiber mop. Use a well rung out damp cloth to clean up any dirt and footprints but avoid using excessive moisture. All spills should be cleaned up immediately. Never use wax, polish or scouning agents as they may dull or distort the finish. You can use acetone or a cleaner specially formulated for laminate to remove stubborn marks.
  • To avoid scratches apply felt pads to your furniture legs and use only soft rubber casters. Protect high traffic areas with runners and area rugs.
  • It’s a good idea to save a few boards in case of accidental damage. Boards can be replaced or repaired by a flooring professional.